SEPT. 28 - KOCHEL AM SEE

 Although Kochel am See is less than 20-miles from Garmisch, we haven't visited there in many years. I think it's because the roads have changed so much, and Kochel has been pretty much by-passed. There are so many new major roads and tunnels in the area. In the "old days" we would have to pass through Kochel on back roads on the way to Garmisch.  

On this short trip, we stopped before Kochel in Schlehdorf so Ron could go into a cafe with terrace we had spotted. It was a matter of urgency to get there, and a big truck blew its horn "angrily" as we crossed over a major street to find a parking spot. After we finally got in and seated at the Landgasthaus Fischerwirt, I had a small ice-cream that wasn't very good, more like ice milk. Ron had wiener with potato salad, this time only 2 sausages instead of 4, a more sensible option. 

Not far behind the cafe was an enormous, old Monastery with a very interesting story. It was originally Benedictine, then Augustinian, and since 1904 a Dominican convent. The sisters have built a new, modern residence on the grounds, and the original building is now called Cohaus Kloster. We couldn't understand the entire concept, but there are 50 rooms where people can live long-term, some vacation rooms, and some studios and work rooms. It is operated by a cooperative for "self-managed, social and ecological living". The residents are "committed people, united by the idea of a fulfilling life in a protected place to live, learn and work under one roof". I think I am moving there soon. I just wonder if they will allow wine on the premises!

Also nearby was the Hofladen, which sold  organic veggies grown on their farm, eggs from their own chicken, meat and sausage from their own animals,  honey, jam, and wool products made on premises. There was also a small cafe in the bottom of the barn under the big hay bales. Ron went in to have a look, but no one was about. I later read they don't open until 2 PM. I wonder if working there is one of the "job assignments" for the residents residing in the old convent.

We drove on from there toward our destination,  but we made another stop first to sit on a bench and gaze at the beautiful Kochel See. Near to us was the Franz Marc Museum. He was a German painter, and was known for his brightly colored animals. He was drafted into the Army at the beginning of WWI. In 1916 he was on a list of notable artists the government wished to remove from combat for their safety, but in that same year he was killed at age 36 at the Battle of Verdun. The Nazi regime suppressed modern art, calling it "degenerative" and seized about 130 of his paintings, which they sold at auction to raise funds for the Reich. In later years there were disputes over ownership of his paintings. Some were returned to Franz' heirs, including "The Foxes" which they sold at auction at Christies in 2022 for a record-setting US$57 million. My favorite is "The Blue Horse" which hangs in a Munich museum. 

It was so pleasant sitting here in the crisp, unpolluted air, gazing at the Kochel See. Once again we weren't well-prepared - didn't bring books nor even a bottle of wine.

We eventually made it to the Grauer Baer, and seated ourselves on the terrace. Ron happened to ask the waitress if this was OK. Funny, because later she had a huge tirade at a group of young people who moved from one table to the next. We couldn't understand it all, but she was REALLY MAD! She went on and on, and then went in and got the manager, who only shrugged. We don't think she ever went to wait on them. Ron said he was glad he had asked about the table rather than incur her wrath. She was an older woman, clad in tracht, and I suppose she liked things the "old way" - orderly! 

I ordered 3 scoops of ice-cream (the minimum order) - one delicious walnut, two chocolate. I asked for "chocolate sauce" which was on the menu, but the waitress said, "Nein". I didn't think it worthwhile to argue with her. Ron had a piece of nusstorte (a kind of nut cake). 

Neither of us recalled being there. Ron was emphatic that we had NEVER been there. However, I later read in my notes we had stopped there in 2009 on the way from Munich (back when the main route went that way). It had been cloudy and rainy, and I remarked that it would be prettier on a clear day. So, we got to see the lake on a clear day this time, and it was lovely. 

We returned to Garmisch and the comfort of our balcony. 

"Nature is the purest portal to inner-peace." (Angie Weiland Crosby)