OCTOBER 12 - DAY OF MANY MEMORIES ON LONG DRIVE TO BODENSEE

We had our last breakfast at Hotel Buchinger, packed up the car with a "tiny" bit of help from the Frau, and set off for a long autobahn drive.

We drove through the outskirts of Salzbug, mentioning various points along the way that triggered more memories. One was the Gaisberg to the left, where we used to go to the most elegant hotel restaurant in the 1970's.  Once we took a group of agents to a dinner there. Years later we had gone back to find it derelict. I was able to search it out on google - the Hotel Kobenzl. We didn't know the details, but seemed to recall that the owner passed away and the family was at odds.

The hotel first opened in 1953, and was purchased by the Herzogs in 1959. It had been their life-long dream, and they poured their hearts into it. It became known as the "most exclusive address" in Salzburg both as a hotel and a dining spot.  Famous guests included Richard Nixon, Henry Kissinger, Margaret Thatcher, the Emperor of Japan and celebrities from many fields including Arnold Scwarzenegger and Jose Carerras.  

 The hotel closed in 2006, and the building stood vacant for eight years prior to the government establishing a center for refugees there. It seems there was finally a sales contract from a secret investor, but it fell through, and family members and the project manager all squabbled and accused each other of fraud. Eventually, the manager was imprisoned for two years. Unfortunately, we don't know the final status, or maybe it is still hanging in limbo. It is very sad, and mind-boggling, for such a loved, magnificent place to end up with such an ignominious demise. 

Today I read that there was quite a well-known photo exhibition depicting scenes such as trays of silverware left behind, all the room keys still hanging, silk chairs, the gold bathroom fixtures, crystal chandeliers, and Louis Vuitton luggage stacked up. And then the photos changed to the later time frame when the hotel was used by refugees; there the photos were steel bunk beds. I will try to find the book that was published with the collection of photos.

Hotel Kobenzl back in the day

Back to today, looking out the left side of the car, our minds went back to the many times we had gone up into the hills there to stay or dine at the Hotel Schoenne Aussicht. It was a rather simple 3* hotel, but spacious, clean, friendly, great food, and wonderful views. This is where we stayed when our Australian friends got married, and Ron and I stood as "best man" and "matron" in the Hall of Mirrors in Mirabell Palace. We stayed several times after that, and went up for a few meals. It all seems so long ago, but yet can recall so many details, and wonder why we haven't been back in recent years.

After getting on the Autobahn, we stopped off to investigate what was left of the old US Army recreation hotel at Chiemsee (the largest lake in Bavaria).  That is going back a long way, as Ron first enjoyed the place as a young soldier in 1964. One of his most vivid memories is of a trumpeter standing on the sea wall playing "Il Silencio" (Italian piece similar in sound to Taps). Very haunting.

We later visited numerous times in the early 1970's, as they were lax checking ID's and we could pop in for an American burger and pick up "The Stars & Stripes" (US Army newspaper). I later worked for the Army, so we had the "proper credentials" to visit legally. 

Sadly, to us (and many others it served), the entire complex is now gone. It closed in 2003 after 58 years serving over 1.5 million US forces, civilian employees and retirees. It was around that time that the new US recreation facilities in Garmisch were built. (Unfortunately, according to reviews, they are not holding up very well, with many reports that they are very dated.) We aren't sure how the transition of the Chiemsee property from US to Germany came about, but eventually the entire old hotel complex was razed. Today, when we drove through there stands a "Medical Park" which seems to have doctor offices, assisted living apartments, etc. 

Heading back on the Munich Autobahn, Ron decided to pull off at the Irschenberg raststatte, another place filled with memories. When Ron was stationed at Bad Aibling, Irschenberg was a stop-off spot between there and Munich. 

Later, we would often stop there, and it was a nice, clean spot and had the BEST spiegeleier und speck (sunny side up eggs cooked on top of bacon). It was the only raststatte I ever enjoyed. Today, it is completely transformed into a lovely two-story restaurant complex with outdoor terrace. And just so you know you're on the autobahn, there is a KFC and a McDonalds, but thankfully, in totally separate buildings. The restaurant, now operated by the Dinzler Group, was lovely with a large pastry, conditorei display, waiter service. And, downstairs a great looking area with sandwiches and light meals to order at the counter, as well as a store with kitchenware, books, etc.

We sat out on the terrace. I had selected a chocolate mousse torte from the display, and an Aperol Spritz. Ron had a bowl of pumpkin cream soup. I was so pleased to see that they still had "spiegeleier & speck" on the menu.  Very nice rest stop.

Delicious pumpkin soups with cubes of pumpkin

Second Room - no where to sit

We then drove on to that evening's destination, Wasserburg am Bodensee, almost another three hours. This was another hotel where we had stayed several times. But, today it is past its prime, and we were very disappointed in the room, the lack of view, and the difficulty presented by the numerous steps. We changed from our first room, and a young man came and cheerfully took our luggage to the next room. It was slightly better, but still nowhere to sit, no way to see  the "lake view" other than standing by the window. Also, crazy internet which blocked use of AOL, which stated all access from Mainland China sites were not permitted.

We went down to the terrace. There is an elevator, but also numerous stairs involved. I had a pasta with gorgonzola and pine nuts - reasonably priced, and not bad. Ron had 3 Nurnberger bratwurst (small sausages). 

When we got back to the room, Ron wrapped up in a doona (comforter) and sat on one of the uncomfortable hassocks with his back resting against the wall, while I sat on the bed trying to work on the "blog". Not a good experience as we end our trip - one of the most expensive rooms of the stay and surely the worst.

Only a few days remain as we try to re-visit and enjoy the experiences that constituted the favorite part of our lives. Travel - seeing the glorious sights, tasting the amazing foods, experiencing other cultures, learning about other ways of life - all of these contributed to the fabric of our lives. So, this trip has been bitter-sweet, as we feel that the exploring,individual type of travel we have always enjoyed is nearing an end. Well, but maybe.....there'll be one more time. 

And on another side note, October 12 was my parents' wedding anniversary. They married in 1932 - 91 years ago. Good heavens! How the world has changed since they were young and how we and now the younger generation are blessed with being able to see so much more of the world.