OCTOBER 17 - MISSED BEING ON KLM - BUT WE MADE IT HOME

We got up about 7 AM, and had breakfast in the hotel. It was somewhat better than the previous day, and at least it was included in the room rate.

The desk clerk called a taxi for us, and we left about 10:30 AM. Another 30 EU to the airport. We thought it was very strange when the driver went into the parking garage and up a couple levels to drop us off. She indicated that the Departures were right through the door. While Ron was paying her, I found a trolley, and we loaded the carry-ons. Ron's roll-on bag was heavy, and his "briefcase/tote bag" even heavier with the computers and paperwork. 

Once we were inside and looked at the departures board, we realized that the driver had left us off at a very inconvenient location. The check-in desk for our flight was an incredibly long walk. If she had dropped us in front of the terminal, we would have been right there. Pushing the trolley wasn't easy, as it was one of those on which you have to push down the handle to move forward. 

 To make matters worse, Ron had used zip ties to close up my walker so it would easier to handle, but also totally unavailable to use, carry luggage on or to sit upon. Thus, it also had to be piled onto the trolley. Slowly we made our way across nearly the entire terminal. Finally I said I didn't think I needed to go to the counter since we already had boarding passes (received the previous day in Geneva). The only place we could see for me to sit was near a crowded, counter-serve coffee shop. I waited until a seat came open, but couldn't  order anything, as I didn't want to leave luggage unattended. Ron continued on to the KLM assistance area to find out what was going on. This is when he found out we didn't have comfort seats, and that the entire plane was full. When he came back he said we had to go back to KLM assistance.

Once we arrived there, we met with the woman Ron had spoken to, a very helpful customer service rep, who let me sit in the area, and she accompanied Ron to the check-in counter. The agent there said it was in the computer that we were to have wheelchair assistance. So, she and Ron came back, got me, and she escorted us another long way to the wheelchairs, as per Ron's comment, "Wheelchairs wouldn't come to us".

At the assistance waiting area, I sat next to a lady who began coughing so much that I retrieved an old "Covid" mask from my bag.  Finally, two wheelchairs came and took us through Immigration and to the plane.

There we walked down the aisle of the A350, not realizing how long a walk it would be. In place of comfort seats, we were assigned seats in Row 51, the absolute last row, surely the worst seats on the plane. I had my small tote bag, and Ron was saddled with his roll-on and briefcase (which I already mentioned were heavy), plus my carry-on (filled with both our medicine bags) . Unlike the previous day on KLM, there were no cheerful, helpful attendants offering to lend a hand aboard Delta. I arrived at Row 51 about 10-minutes prior to Ron, who was struggling along while trying to find a place in the overhead bins to store his roll-on. The seat configuration was 3-3-3, and we were in the middle section, so I had the very middle seat. It's been about 40-years since I sat in a middle seat since if we fly economy we always request aisles across from each other. Thankfully, the young Dutch fellow next to me was pleasant, and even offered me a chocolate cookie, commenting "Sharing is caring." 

That guy didn't think the seats in our row reclined, and I was trying to no avail. We were really upset then, but finally, Ron found the right button and showed me. I then told my Dutch seat mate, and we were all a tad happier.

Knowing that unlike the previous day there would be no "adult beverage" handed to us within moments, I commented, "They will run out of wine before they ever serve this row". Ron said, "The galley is right here, they will start here." Ha!

We were air-borne about 2 PM, and cabin service began about an hour later. Of course, the beverage carts passed right by, and service began around the middle of the economy section. Around 4 PM, when the attendants had worked their way back, we each finally received a plastic cup of wine. Unbelievably, the wine was no sooner on the seat-back tray, then the plane hit pretty severe turbulence. Flight attendants had to return to their seats immediately. We were all clinging to our belongings, especially the beverages. The guy next to me said "Your cutlery landed in my lap." Glad it was cutlery instead of the precious vino. Ron handed me the flat top from one of the food containers to try to contain the wine in place of holding my palm over it. Luckily, the turbulence only lasted about 10-minutes, and only a quarter of the glass had spilled out. It was all actually pretty funny. And fortunate that we had been served just in the nick of time.

The chosen meal selection for the three of us in middle Row 51 was chicken, but of course by the time the food server got to our row, there was only one chicken left. Ron gave me the chicken, and he had the pasta, which neither of us could identify by taste or consistency. 

There were several interesting sounding new release movies, but my Delta "earbud" headphones did not work properly, so I couldn't take advantage of the seat-back entertainment. But, overall I was surprised that the seat was not as uncomfortable as we had expected. Ron was still irate, but I didn't find it so terrible. 

The flight was a little over 9 hours, and we arrived in Atlanta on-time around 4:30 PM. Of course we were the last passengers to deplane. We walked up the jetway to the terminal.

Eventually, one wheelchair assistant showed up. He was annoyed that the order hadn't been correct but said, "No problem" and began pushing us both, moving along at a brisk pace. It was truly unbelievable what a long distance it was. The architect who designed that international arrivals area should be barred from the profession. We told our "driver" that we had "Global Entry" for Immigration so could use a kiosk instead of standing in line. He said that the Global Entry area was about another mile, and if it wasn't busy it would be easier to go through the line. Of course, he was able to access a special lane, so we got through very quickly. He had been chatting all along the way, and I said he must be in shape to run a marathon. He told us he had been working in Atlanta airport five years, and had trained many of the help assistants. Previously he worked in Detroit, and mentioned Woodward, John R, and Livernois, all streets I was very familiar with.

The next challenge was dealing with the checked bags, which the driver and Ron collected from the carousel and placed on a trolley. The driver then told Ron that he would be responsible for pushing the trolley in front of his wheelchair and steering it  (which involved pushing down on that bar again), and he proceeded to push Ron, me, AND the luggage trolley another long distance to the pick-up area in front of arrivals. We should have had a picture of that procession.

Ron had arranged to be picked up by a woman named Janet, who lives in Deaton Creek, and been recommended by other residents. Janet was chased away by the traffic cop, but managed to get back to collect us and fit all the luggage into her orange vehicle (we didn't notice the make).

Janet is a heavy-set black woman, and when she began talking about moving to Deaton Creek, some of the things she mentioned seemed familiar. I finally placed that I had played Mah-Jong with her once at a neighbor's home. I wasn't sure, so I didn't mention it, as I thought it might verge on that "all black people look alike" phrase. 

The traffic was as expected for Atlanta rush-hour, slow-going. When we finally got to Braselton, Ron asked Janet to stop at JAX. He didn't think there was any Scotch at the house, and it was needed to settle the nerves of the long two days. 

The house looked pristine. No piles of paperwork stacked around, and everything in its place unless you looked for the inch of dust on every surface.

Janet rang the doorbell shortly after we got home, and returned the two umbrellas we had left in the car. At that time Ron mentioned that I thought I had played Mah-Jong with her at Angela's, and that she had driven me home. She said she thought I looked familiar. Maybe "all white folks look the same", too.

Ron said he was so exhausted that he wasn't even going to touch a suitcase that evening. I did open the small ones, and started sorting and piling "stuff" to be put away, laundered, or whatever. We were in bed before 10 PM (4 AM on our body clocks). It was a tiring, stressful few days, but we will enjoy the anecdotes, memories, and beautiful photos such as this mesmerizing view from our nest in Garmisch. As American novelist, Eudora Welty, remarked, "A good snapshot stops a moment from running away."

"To my mind, the greatest reward and luxury of travel is to be able to experience everyday things as if for the first time, to be in a position in which almost nothing is so familiar it is taken for granted." - Bill Bryson

OCTOBER 16 - A LONG DAY IN AIRPORTS

We decided to spend the 30 EU to have the bare-bones breakfast at the hotel. A waste of money. Not even a good French baguette to be found - only croissants and some filled pastries, most likely pain chocolat. We don't care for either of those. And, as usual, in France, the famous "soft, custardy" scrambled eggs that look more like grits. We call it scrambled egg soup, and do not partake. People actually strive for these results, and look to many sources for great recipes. Another common unappealing breakfast find for most American palates is the almost raw, greasy bacon. I noticed the server had just filled up the chafing dish, so had a look. It seemed brown on top, but when I picked it up, the underside was totally uncooked. Let us just say it was definitely not one of the better breakfasts of our trip.

We had planned to "hang out" in the hotel lobby where we
would have Internet, but check-out from our room was not until noon, so we didn't have to spend much time there. It was very cold, and very noisy. 

Car Return Facility

One of the reasons we had chosen the hotel in Ferney-Voltaire was its proximity to the car rental site. It was less than 2-miles away, and we arrived about 12:30. The lady there informed Ron that he was early, but took care of all the paperwork formalities, including the document transfering ownership of the vehicle back to Citroen. We were very satisfied with the car, and like the inclusion of no-deductible insurance. But, for a change, we returned the car with no new dents, scratches, broken tire rims, or other mishaps (all of which happened in thepast).

Ron and the lady piled the luggage into the van, and we set out for Geneva Airport. She asked whether we needed the French side or the Swiss side. We were hesitant, but since we had arrived on the Swiss side, and KLM flew from Terminal 1, we figured it was Swiss, and kept saying "KLM". She announced in halting English that the "contract" called for her to deliver us to the French side. We remembered what a trek that had been, and could see another crisis developing. Fortunately, she said, "I have time, I will do you service and take you to Swiss side". So, that was good. She dropped us in front of the Departures Terminal. We were able to get a luggage trolley, and Ron put the two very heavy check bags on it, as well as a couple of the carry-ons. 

We found the correct check-in counter, but it wasn't opening for about two-hours more. Ron went over to a bank of kiosks, and was able to print out boarding passes. Our flight was KL#1934 departing at 7:30 PM, and I couldn't see it on the departures board. Instead I saw KL#1932, departing at 5:15 PM. I asked Ron to see if we could change since it would be a lot more comfortable to be in a hotel room in Amsterdam than sitting in Geneva Airport.

I sat on my walker at the front of the check-in line and we swapped the seat back and forth, each having 5-10 minutes 
"rest" at a time. Finally, an agent opened the counter and we were first in line. The agent originally said KLM didn't cancel any flights today, and asked "Who cancelled the flight?" I had the notice from KLM on my phone, but by the time I pulled it up, the agent had spoken to someone and learned we were correct. He said, "no problem" to change to the earlier flight. So, he pointed to an area directly across the way where we could wait for wheelchair assistance. Originally there was only one, but finally another came. So, we were off through the airport quickly. By then the flight was already boarding, so there was no time to stop off. 

The plane was an Embraer, but a much newer and bigger model than we had ever encountered. We had aisle and window seats together, and it was not uncomfortable at all. 

The KLM flight attendants were wonderful - so cheerful and smiling, welcoming us, assisting with our carry-ons, and asking if there was anything else they could do for us. Ron said, jokingly, only a beer and wine. Within a minute or so, a beer and wine were in our hands. Unbelievable service in economy class. 

When we arrived in Amsterdam we had to wait in our seats on the plane, as it was the dreaded "bus" transport from tarmac to terminal. One of the flight attendants sat with us and chatted very pleasantly. When a special van arrived for us, we walked down the steps of the plane, but the flight attendants handled all of our luggage. 

We were then driven to the terminal, and we waited for wheelchairs, which then took us through Immigration. It was a special lane with no wait, and we were quickly on or way. We had originally asked to be taken to the area for hotel shuttles, but then decided to take a taxi. This turned out to be a good decision since the Hampton Inn did not have an airport shuttle.

The taxi fare to the nearby Hampton was 30 EU. We checked in. There were no Hilton "Diamond up-grades" because the clerk said the rooms were all the same. However, Ron requested a walk-in, accessible shower, and we then received a room that was much nicer. 

We had a nightcap in the multi-purpose check-in/bar/lobby area and were winding down. Ron also ordered nachos, which were very sparsely topped - not our idea of nachos.  Along came a huge group of young men, probably some sports team, checking in. We were glad we had arrived ahead of the crowd.

I was feeling very old, as in younger days we would have hopped on the underground and gone into Amsterdam for a nice evening. Never understood back then why people would retire to their hotel and not go out to explore. Alas, what changes the years bring.

OCTOBER 15 - PERCH AND LATE NIGHT NEWS FROM KLM

 Ron thought we had breakfast included in the room rate, but the desk clerk said no. Ron had a look at the buffet, and decided we didn't need to spend $30 for the same old cheese and prosciutto, and the hot items were less than desirable - raw bacon and scrambled eggs the French way, like soup. I looked on line and saw a couple nearby "cafes" that were open on Sunday morning. 

Our hotel was in Ferney-Voltaire, obviously named for Voltaire, who had a beautiful chateau and lived there for 20 years toward the end of his life. He is another famous historic figure that I want to read more about. He was such a brilliant thinker, and there are many interesting quotes attributed to him. His criticism of monarchy and clergy landed him in prison several times, and he was at one time exiled to England. He was opposed to organized religion, believing it to be corrupt, and believed people had the right to question everything to find truth. He was somewhat a philanthropist, having created various industries in Ferney and even paid for homes for numerous residents. 

The first place we drove to, Zadig Cafe, was only a few blocks away. When we drove there it seemed like the neighborhood wasn't the best choice. Ron didn't think it prudent for two Americans to join a group of Arabs during these turbulent times. 

So, we drove on and went out past Ornex and into Gex, where we went to the Paul Bakery/Cafe I had read about on-line. We used to love Paul in Tours when we owned the farm. They had a great "American-style" breakfast. I knew that not all Pauls served a hot breakfast, and sure enough, the one in Gex did not. But it was unusual to see, as it was huge and in an even bigger supermarket also named Paul (but later found out it is actually an Intermarche). We decided we didn't need to pay about the same amount as at the hotel for a pastry and coffee. So, again we drove on. I had used free internet when Ron stopped at an enormous Carrefour to use the ATM and found another cafe in GEX that was supposed to be open with a very welcoming proprietor.

We finally found it way up a winding road. It was very cool and blustery, threatening rain. Ron dropped me off, and I hesitantly made my way inside. It has been a long time since I could speak any words of French, and this definitely looked like a place where no one would speak English. So, I made my way nervously down the two entrance stairs into what appeared to be a bar. I said ""Bon Jour, and asked if they had a menu. The woman behind the bar in a low-cut blouse spouted off about 20 words in French of which I understood none. I then asked "petit de'jeuner" (breakfast). Another 20 words. I then hand-signalled and asked "fini"? She said more words, but I did understand there would be no breakfast. Where was that "welcoming proprietor" described in the reviews?

These are the kind of experiences you don't enjoy in a country where you don't speak the language, but thankfully, they seem less frequent that in the "old days".  It is a challenge, and some people are more helpful than others. I went out into the chilly, damp weather, pulled up the hood of my jacket, and texted Ron, "No good, please pick me up", hoping he would see it before parking some long distance away and walking!

But, in the meantime, he had no chance to look at texts, as he was having a nerve-racking experience of his own. He said he felt a adrenalin rush while driving through the narrow hilly street that was becoming narrower and narrower, with no possibility to pass another vehicle, and nowhere to turn around. I am glad I didn't see it, and can't imagine it, as he said it was worse than all the previous tight spots we'd been in, and we'd been in several.

Despite finding nothing to eat, it was very interesting driving in these small towns of France, basically the suburbs of Geneva. In some places there were fabulous, incredibly expensive villas and apartments, in other spots loads and loads of new construction with apartments or condos. Everywhere you look throughout the area we traveled there were vast amounts construction and road work. Regardless of the snafus and frustrations, we were glad to see more of Geneva and its environs than we had on previous quick visits. Geneva is considered one of the most beautiful cities in Europe with its position on both the Lake and the Rhone, with the mountains in the background. The city enjoys a certain prestige with the United Nations, the Red Cross, and other important international institutions based there. 

Shortly after 11 AM, Ron said he thought we should forget about breakfast and start thinking about that final perch lunch I was craving. I had read an article about the best perch restaurants in and around Geneva. One that was highly touted was Le Creux de Genthod, which happened to be in the hills above the lake where we were driving. We plugged it into the GPS and made our way there. 

Initially we sat outside on the beautiful terrace, as the Sun had begun to shine, and it was pleasant because the restaurant provided blankets at every seat. But, after we ordered, it was getting chilly, and we told the waitress we needed to move inside. She didn't seem the least upset and helped us move everything. It has been great meeting people in restaurants who are friendly and helpful, unlike the arrogant "garcon" of the "old days" - or the lady in the bar in Gex.

Ron started with chestnut and celery soup. It was very unusual, not to be ordered again. He then had another steak, filet mignon, which was delicious.  I had my perch, a very plentiful plate full. They were good but didn't stay hot long enough, and no where as delicious as what I enjoyed at La Jolla near Evian. 

After lunch we weren't ready to return to the hotel, so drove looking for a charming spot for our final evening in Europe. We didn't find what we were looking for. But did stop in the village of Coppet, parked along the lake, and walked along the narrow main street away from the lake. We came upon the Cote Jardin, a small cafe under the name of the famous chocolate and pastry maker, Guillaume Bichet. I thought we might find an interesting dessert there, but the menu was actually pretty boring, and there was no beautiful pastry case to tempt us. We ended up with our usual beer and wine. 

Then it was time to head back to the room, finish packing up and get ready for an early start the next day. Ron was quickly sleeping, but I hadn't checked e-mails recently, and decided I should log-in one last time before being away from Internet. This was a fortunate decision, as I discovered a very unwelcome message from KLM.  This was cause to awaken Ron, which isn't fun since he never seems to be his usual "sweet-natured" self when his sleep is interrupted. Grumpy is more like it!

But, there was no choice. Our flight from Geneva the next morning had been changed to late afternoon, and even worse the continuing flight from Amsterdam to Atlanta was cancelled, and we were booked the FOLLOWING DAY. And, even worse, the carrier was changed from KLM to Delta. Many phone calls were necessary at what was now approaching midnight. First, Ron spoke with KLM and one of the pieces of bad news was that we could not get the comfort seats we had paid for, could not change to another KLM flight (instead of Delta), and if we chose to make another change it would be $1,500. So, that gave us a lot to fume about.

Next, the return of the Citroen had to be changed. As required by the contract, Ron had made an appointment with the appropriate person to return the Citroen to Ornex at 8 AM. He texted to change the appointment to 1 PM. The appointment is supposed to be, and was originally, made 5-days in advance. So, a last-minute change like this might have unexpected consequences. It is an unoccupied facility unless you have the appropriate appointment.

Plus, we would now be in Amsterdam overnight, so a hotel was needed. Ron was able to use some of our remaining Hilton points to book a room at the airport Hampton Inn. He also texted the driver we had arranged in Atlanta to change that pick-up time. Then we fretted  about it awhile before settling down to a restless night. The only "plus" was not having to be up before 6 AM.

OCTOBER 14 - DRIVING FROM BODENSEE TO LAKE GENEVA

 We left the Schloss on Bodensee about 10:30 AM, planning on a 5-1/2 hour drive to our hotel near Geneva airport. 

I had two wishes for the last days of our journey - fondue or raclette and lake perch.

I turned on data roaming, and was able to find a place that was open for lunch above Lausanne, The Swiss Chalet, on the edge of the Sauvabelin Park, a forested area with panoramic views over the city.  

Ron had parked illegally while we first went into the restaurant to be sure they were serving, and then we were seated and he forgot all about the car. Suddenly he jumped up and said, "THE CAR!" Off he went to park, which was down the hill in the lot for the Sauvabelin. When he returned he went to the bathroom, and reported to me that it was in the basement. The stairs had a chair lift, but he couldn't see how to operate it. I said I would tackle the stairs, but when I got there they were very steep, and the chair lift rail was not suitable for hanging on to. The young waiter was behind the bar and saw me hesitating, and asked if there was a problem. I told him the stairs were too steep, and he said, "Oh, I will help." I thought he was going to work the chair lift, but he said, "We have personnel toilets on this floor, I will show you." So, for the second time on this trip, I was led behind the scenes, down long halls, and through the kitchen. We ended up in a small room with lockers for employees and shoes scattered all over the floor. He pointed inside and said, "There is for ladies." Very kind of him to have helped. Unfortunately, when I went to exit the stall, I couldn't unlock the door. I was twisting the lock and pulling to no avail. I was getting to the point of panic - what embarrassment it would be to have to scream for help!! But, finally one last pull and the door opened. I came back to the table laughing, and said, "Another bathroom adventure." 

Back to the subject: cheese. Although the restaurant's on-line menu included raclette, which was Ron's preference, they only served fondue. There were about seven varieties, including one with beer and Armagnac. We stuck to the plain cheese, but with a big glass of kirsch for dipping. It was good and plentiful, although I prefer a crustier bread. It was an expensive wish fulfillment. In the future we will be happy to pay $5 for a packet of fondue at Lidl!!

Drove on to the Apart Hotel in Ferney-Voltaire., France, less than 2 miles to Geneva airport. Ron had me wait in the car while he went in to check things out. The room was smaller than expected, but Ron later asked for a room with handicap walk-in shower, and they moved us to a much nicer room with an enormous walk-in closet, benches for luggage, and a great shower. It was more than adequate for our needs, and a great price, less than half of some of the chain hotels.

We brought our drinks down to the lobby area which had more comfortable seating options than the room. The only drawback was the volume of the music was too loud. We didn't feel like facing traffic and lunch had been our splurge for the day, so we stayed in. Another early evening.

OCTOBER 13 - VERY QUIET DAY IN WASSERBURG

We had breakfast in the wooden Fuggerstube, complete with painted arched ceiling. It was too breezy and chilly to sit on the terrace. We discovered Prosecco on the buffet table, and that was the best part of the otherwise ordinary breakfast. 

We went for a little walk mid-day, pushing my walker which is sometimes more hindrance than help. It doesn't travel well over gravel paths. We briefly sat along the quai where the boats were arriving from other parts of the lake. Finally went into The Salvatore, and sat on the terrace for a drink and an ice-cream. 

Later in the afternoon Ron discovered a place we could sit on a bench overlooking the swans on the lake, and we took our own drinks down there. Enjoyed sitting there enjoying the scenery.

Later, we discussed driving into Lindau to a Thai restaurant, but we weren't feeling lively  enough. Although, if I'd known there was a casino in Lindau, I might have been livelier. So, when "dinner time" approached we again walked to The Salvatore. The interior was very lovely, and we sat inside. Ron had pizza and I had rigatoni al forno, similar to lasagna but with a cream sauce instead of tomato sauce. The young waiter was very friendly and efficient.

OCTOBER 12 - DAY OF MANY MEMORIES ON LONG DRIVE TO BODENSEE

We had our last breakfast at Hotel Buchinger, packed up the car with a "tiny" bit of help from the Frau, and set off for a long autobahn drive.

We drove through the outskirts of Salzbug, mentioning various points along the way that triggered more memories. One was the Gaisberg to the left, where we used to go to the most elegant hotel restaurant in the 1970's.  Once we took a group of agents to a dinner there. Years later we had gone back to find it derelict. I was able to search it out on google - the Hotel Kobenzl. We didn't know the details, but seemed to recall that the owner passed away and the family was at odds.

The hotel first opened in 1953, and was purchased by the Herzogs in 1959. It had been their life-long dream, and they poured their hearts into it. It became known as the "most exclusive address" in Salzburg both as a hotel and a dining spot.  Famous guests included Richard Nixon, Henry Kissinger, Margaret Thatcher, the Emperor of Japan and celebrities from many fields including Arnold Scwarzenegger and Jose Carerras.  

 The hotel closed in 2006, and the building stood vacant for eight years prior to the government establishing a center for refugees there. It seems there was finally a sales contract from a secret investor, but it fell through, and family members and the project manager all squabbled and accused each other of fraud. Eventually, the manager was imprisoned for two years. Unfortunately, we don't know the final status, or maybe it is still hanging in limbo. It is very sad, and mind-boggling, for such a loved, magnificent place to end up with such an ignominious demise. 

Today I read that there was quite a well-known photo exhibition depicting scenes such as trays of silverware left behind, all the room keys still hanging, silk chairs, the gold bathroom fixtures, crystal chandeliers, and Louis Vuitton luggage stacked up. And then the photos changed to the later time frame when the hotel was used by refugees; there the photos were steel bunk beds. I will try to find the book that was published with the collection of photos.

Hotel Kobenzl back in the day

Back to today, looking out the left side of the car, our minds went back to the many times we had gone up into the hills there to stay or dine at the Hotel Schoenne Aussicht. It was a rather simple 3* hotel, but spacious, clean, friendly, great food, and wonderful views. This is where we stayed when our Australian friends got married, and Ron and I stood as "best man" and "matron" in the Hall of Mirrors in Mirabell Palace. We stayed several times after that, and went up for a few meals. It all seems so long ago, but yet can recall so many details, and wonder why we haven't been back in recent years.

After getting on the Autobahn, we stopped off to investigate what was left of the old US Army recreation hotel at Chiemsee (the largest lake in Bavaria).  That is going back a long way, as Ron first enjoyed the place as a young soldier in 1964. One of his most vivid memories is of a trumpeter standing on the sea wall playing "Il Silencio" (Italian piece similar in sound to Taps). Very haunting.

We later visited numerous times in the early 1970's, as they were lax checking ID's and we could pop in for an American burger and pick up "The Stars & Stripes" (US Army newspaper). I later worked for the Army, so we had the "proper credentials" to visit legally. 

Sadly, to us (and many others it served), the entire complex is now gone. It closed in 2003 after 58 years serving over 1.5 million US forces, civilian employees and retirees. It was around that time that the new US recreation facilities in Garmisch were built. (Unfortunately, according to reviews, they are not holding up very well, with many reports that they are very dated.) We aren't sure how the transition of the Chiemsee property from US to Germany came about, but eventually the entire old hotel complex was razed. Today, when we drove through there stands a "Medical Park" which seems to have doctor offices, assisted living apartments, etc. 

Heading back on the Munich Autobahn, Ron decided to pull off at the Irschenberg raststatte, another place filled with memories. When Ron was stationed at Bad Aibling, Irschenberg was a stop-off spot between there and Munich. 

Later, we would often stop there, and it was a nice, clean spot and had the BEST spiegeleier und speck (sunny side up eggs cooked on top of bacon). It was the only raststatte I ever enjoyed. Today, it is completely transformed into a lovely two-story restaurant complex with outdoor terrace. And just so you know you're on the autobahn, there is a KFC and a McDonalds, but thankfully, in totally separate buildings. The restaurant, now operated by the Dinzler Group, was lovely with a large pastry, conditorei display, waiter service. And, downstairs a great looking area with sandwiches and light meals to order at the counter, as well as a store with kitchenware, books, etc.

We sat out on the terrace. I had selected a chocolate mousse torte from the display, and an Aperol Spritz. Ron had a bowl of pumpkin cream soup. I was so pleased to see that they still had "spiegeleier & speck" on the menu.  Very nice rest stop.

Delicious pumpkin soups with cubes of pumpkin

Second Room - no where to sit

We then drove on to that evening's destination, Wasserburg am Bodensee, almost another three hours. This was another hotel where we had stayed several times. But, today it is past its prime, and we were very disappointed in the room, the lack of view, and the difficulty presented by the numerous steps. We changed from our first room, and a young man came and cheerfully took our luggage to the next room. It was slightly better, but still nowhere to sit, no way to see  the "lake view" other than standing by the window. Also, crazy internet which blocked use of AOL, which stated all access from Mainland China sites were not permitted.

We went down to the terrace. There is an elevator, but also numerous stairs involved. I had a pasta with gorgonzola and pine nuts - reasonably priced, and not bad. Ron had 3 Nurnberger bratwurst (small sausages). 

When we got back to the room, Ron wrapped up in a doona (comforter) and sat on one of the uncomfortable hassocks with his back resting against the wall, while I sat on the bed trying to work on the "blog". Not a good experience as we end our trip - one of the most expensive rooms of the stay and surely the worst.

Only a few days remain as we try to re-visit and enjoy the experiences that constituted the favorite part of our lives. Travel - seeing the glorious sights, tasting the amazing foods, experiencing other cultures, learning about other ways of life - all of these contributed to the fabric of our lives. So, this trip has been bitter-sweet, as we feel that the exploring,individual type of travel we have always enjoyed is nearing an end. Well, but maybe.....there'll be one more time. 

And on another side note, October 12 was my parents' wedding anniversary. They married in 1932 - 91 years ago. Good heavens! How the world has changed since they were young and how we and now the younger generation are blessed with being able to see so much more of the world.

OCTOBER 11 - GMUNDEN AM TRAUNSEE

Our outing today was to Gmunden on Traunsee - about an hour through a range of mountains that we don't find particularly pretty. They reminded us of the more gray, rocky mountains of northern Italy.

Our destination was the Hois'n Wirt, which happened to be on the same road, even beyond the Grunberg we had come upon September 22, the day we were meandering in Gmunden on our way from Vienna. Ron dropped me off at the "back" entrance which was level, and I made my way to the terrace, passing quite a few "older" folks with walkers and canes.

The property was purchased by "Old Hois", the great-grandfather of the current owners over a hundred years ago. The Salzkammergut area first became populated because Emperor Franz Joseph had established a hunting lodge in nearby Bad Ischl. Other nobles, artists, musicians, and military officers came to be close.

We had looked at the menu (English version) earlier, and Ron was looking forward to rump steak with krauter (herb) butter. Reading the menu at lunch we did not see that listed, so he was quite disappointed. I looked it up on-line and we showed the waitress, and she pointed to the first item under "Classics" - Gegrillte Schnitte von der Stierbeiried. We had misinterpreted "schnitte" to mean slices, whereas it actually refers to "cut of meat". So, he was happy, and did enjoy it very much. He gave me a few bites and it was tasty. I read that Americans probably refer to rump steak as "porterhouse". 

I had chicken strips in a brandy cream sauce with dried plums, served with potato croquettes. It was also very tasty.

We had to re-trace our earlier route back to St. Wolfgang through the dreary mountain range.

We went to the Dorf Alm, an "alpine hut" in the center of St. Wolfgang, which the owner of our hotel had recommended. Thankfully, there was an elevator, as seating was on the second floor. It was a lovely day so we were able to sit out on the terrace. The "Alm" was designed to create the feeling of "peace and relaxation" one finds in the high Alp meadows.

We returned to our room and pleasant balcony overlooking the lake. A restful evening. Ron is always disparaging about these early evenings, but we aren't up to going out partying.

OCTOBER 10 - FUSCHL AM SEE

 Late morning we drove to Fuschl Am See. Thought we might have lunch at the beautiful Hotel Seerose, but it was closed. We walked a long way along the lake. Most hotels were closed. Ron went into one that appeared to be open, but they were only serving hotel guests. Finally,  Ron went back to get the car. I continued with my walker and stopped at the garden terrace of the Hotel Schlick. Ron ended up joining me there. He had a beer and I had a refreshing limoncello spritz. 

The terrace was on the banks of the Fuschlsee, and in the distance across the lake you could see the Schloss Fuschl, a 15th-century castle property that is the site of a major resort. 

Again, since this is a "nostalgia" trip, there are many memories. We took a group of Australian agents to the resort in 1989.  There was so much squabbling over the rooms since they are all different, unlike a Marriott or Hyatt! Eventually, everyone was pacified. We came back to the hotel on several occasions. 

We drove around the lake and up the narrow lane that leads to the hotel. The gates to the Schloss were closed, and all that was open was the Fischerei. We stopped there and sat on the rustic benches for a beverage. Breathing the aromatic smell of smoking fish we hoped there would be something we might enjoy, but the display in the counter was not appealing. Everything is self-serve, order at counter. On the lower terrace there is a sign in English reading "Your mother's not here. Clean up your own mess". 

Ron walked down where he could get a glimpse of the castle, and saw that it was surrounded by scaffolding. We then read that it is closed for total year-long renovation, and will reopen in the Spring as a Rosewood property rather than a Marriott. It first opened as a hotel in the 1950's and drew movie stars and famous politicians of that era. We know it definitely needed a lot of updating to meet current expectations of wealthy travelers. Rosewood is comparable to Four Seasons and Mandarin Oriental, so I'm sure it will be fabulous.

Our next stop was St. Gilgen, and we were still in search of a place to eat. We stopped at an attractive building on the lake, but perusing the menu for the upstairs "gourmet" restaurant Atelier quickly stopped us from going there. Not only does it have three Gault Millau toques (and priced accordingly) but features "innovative" cooking, which reading the Gault Millau review is often "strange". For example, "morsels served on fish skeleton".

The "offensive" fountain

Instead we sat on the terrace of the ground floor establishment, Papageno, which is owned and operated by the same chef from the Atelier. We couldn't agree where to sit. One of the tables was next to a noisy fountain, with yellow-looking water. One was near a grate where a roaring sound could be heard. One was near the playground with squealing children. We finally sat, but decided not to eat. At the adjacent table were a couple men speaking loudly on their mobile phone the entire time we were there. Think they were Turks chatting with their children back home. As you can tell, this wasn't the most pleasurable experience. 

We then headed "home" to St. Wolfgang. We spotted the Pizzeria Mirabella on the main street. Ron dropped me off and parked illegally. Ron ordered a pizza, and I had a slice or two. He thought it was fine, but I didn't care for it, but I'm not a pizza devotee. Later read reviews, and many folks warned to "beware of frozen, horrible pizza".

It turns out where Ron parked was the front of a building we had been wondering about, Scalaria. I researched and found out it is a event center for major business launches, forums, conferences, and has about 200 hotel rooms. It is promoted as "not a conventional event center, but an inhabitable experience". They hype themselves with the slogan, "Surprise, Inspire, Amaze". We agree with a trip advisor reviewer who said "It is the ugliest structure in the Salzkammergut, and

Scalaria

whoever allowed it there should be imprisoned". The turrets can be seem from all over St. Wolfgang and even from across the lake. 

We then returned to our room and balcony for another early evening. Ron said, "This is crazy - to be in bed by 8:30 PM." But, he didn't have a book, and I didn't feel like working on the computer. I said that is why I like to stay in a place where you can walk around the area with things to do, or at least a hotel bar where you can go and mingle with other people. 

OCTOBER 9 - DAY IN SANKT WOLFGANG & DINNER IN "SPA"

 

After breakfast, Ron went out to the dock to enjoy the morning breezes. He took a "selfie" to show our hotel in the background.

We drove the short distance to Sankt Wolfgang, and walked along the lake. Many "touristy" shops. We started out walking from the front of the Weissen Rossl, and ended up in back of there. The first trip I did alone through Europe, taking the train, I somehow ended up on Wolfgangsee and took a short boat ride to Sankt Wolfgang, which at that time deposited me right near the Weissen Rossl, which was made famous in an opera in the 1930's. I think I was in the building with the arch to the right, and that the orange building is "new". I have to go back to research OLD letters to find out where I was staying at that time, and WHY. Memories do slip away!

 We ended up sitting on the lovely terrace of the  Weissen Hirschen (white deer) just opposite Weissen Rossl. We soaked in the atmosphere of the lake and mountains. So pleasant that we had to order a second round.

Later, we stopped in another famous cafe, The Wallner, which has been in existence about 500 years. We didn't take advantage of their offerings, only a cup of ice cream.

Later that evening we were a bit hungry and ventured out of the hotel. We drove further into Ried, and ended up at the Leopoldhof, where the only restaurant open was for their spa. We were welcomed in, but we were the only people in street clothes. Everyone else was in their bath robes after enjoying swimming or spa treatments. It was a very unusual experience!

It was a very beautiful pool area which could be seen from the dining room.

After a light dinner, we returned to our room, climbed the many steps, and were glad to have another nice balcony. Unfortunately, I don't seem to have a picture from that evening. 

OCTOBER 8 - LEAVING GARMISCH FOR THE WOLFGANG SEE

We were ready and able to leave by 9 AM. Ron climbed the stairs six times to take all of our bags and luggage. The two large suitcases were the biggest challenge. He climbed one last time to leave the key in the door rather than ring the Hausler's bell. I wasn't able to help him load the car, and felt bad. 

We took the slightly longer, but more scenic route through Innsbruck in order to miss the Munich traffic. The Austrian autobahn came back into the Munich-Salzburg autobahn near Rosenheim. Ron thought that for "nostalgia" we should have lunch at the Landgasthof Karner in Frasdorf. We have enjoyed dining there, and even stayed there once or twice, over the years. Frasdorf is also the infamous site of the ski mountain where Ron skied over a little girl. It was his first (and last) time on downhill skis about 60 years ago, and he had set out without a lesson! The angry mother chased him, and when we'd be in the area in the early 1970's, we'd always keep an eye out for her just in case! 

Alas, as I feared (and couldn't check without Internet) the Karner was closed on Sundays (and Mondays). We remembered eating in two other locales nearby, and not caring for either one.

 We drove into Aschau, and came upon the Residenz Heinz Winkler where we had lunch with Ron's sister and niece in 1998. At that time the restaurant held three Michelin stars. When Winkler died suddenly a year ago, it had two stars, and since his death Michelin has stripped them both. His estate is apparently in total chaos with ex, ex wives, girlfriend 40 years junior, the son and other family members all at cross purposes. What a mess! I hope to find a short biography of his interesting life - he was the youngest three-star Michelin chef of his time back in the early 1970's as head chef at the Tantris in Munich (another restaurant we tried a few times). 

Anyway, with or without stars, it wasn't the kind of place we were looking for. "Light" set lunch menus started at 125 EU per person (sans alcohol). Think the prices were as bad back when we had our repast there, which none of us enjoyed enough to warrant the price tag.

We then drove toward Lake Chiemsee, and stopped at the first place we came to that appeared "gemutlich" - Gasthof Alterwirt in Bernau. It was very  busy for Sunday lunch, and we were first offered to share the "stammtisch" with another couple. They didn't look too receptive to that idea, and we said no. The head waiter finally said it would be okay for us to sit at another nice table. 

When we were ordering, the waiter said my "appetizer" (gebackene camembert and mozzarella) was very big, and seemed to question if that was a good choice. We then said we would share it, and he continued with the order. Ron had kurbiscrem-suppe and schweinebraten.( roast pork) I had felchen (small white lake fish). The waiter was right that the appetizer was too big, especially since it included a huge salad. We didn't care for the fried cheeses. I expected a more delicate presentation like we've had in France, but what was I thinking? This was Bavaria and they were plain old, fried mozzarella sticks and camembert patties.

After lunch we walked a short way to take photos of the nearby beautiful blue and white Bonnschloessl spa hotel, as well as the May pole, weeping willow trees and small war memorial. The exterior and gardens of the hotel were beautiful, but later read reviews that the inside is dated and needs major improvement.

Ron had taken a picture of this war memorial when we first arrived. I had just gotten out of the car, and a passenger in another vehicle shook his finger repeatedly at me. I couldn't figure out what I'd done wrong. Later, we decided that he didn't like us taking pictures of the German memorial, thinking we were either French (our car make and tags) or Americans.

As we travel through this area we are constantly reminded of the traditions of Bavaria. My favorite is the beautiful balcony flowers. Another is the village May Pole that we always love to see. 

We drove on past Salzburg into the "Lake District". We found St. Wolfgang with no problem, but then, as usual, had a problem getting tangled up in the traffic area of the town where we weren't supposed to be to begin with. We drove all through town down to the very end of a lane, where a man asked what we were doing. Ron explained that we were trying to find our hotel and gave him the address. He said it was on the other side of town and we had to go back. He then went back into his garage without offering to let us turn around there. It took about 10 minutes to get the car headed safely in the right direction. Ron does get into some tight squeezes, and the maneuvering to get out is amazing. As Ron was jockeying the car, he kept backing up against a small pole and to avoid hitting it he had to keep inching back and forth. By this time his attempts were gathering a large crowd of observers. A man finally helped him out by showing with his hands how close to the wall in front was the fender. Just as Ron was finally able to execute the turn-around, another man moved the pole out of the way. The entire crowd burst into laughter at this turn of events. We laughed too.

Eventually made our way to our hotel, which, although it had a Sankt Wolfgang mailing address, was actually in the small village just beyond, Ried. We made our way there, and parked opposite the hotel. I was quite perturbed because of the STAIRS. The owner, who made my reservation, knew I had issues with stairs. When I made the booking I  knew there was no elevator, and stipulated no higher than first floor (that is the second floor in US terminology). She made the reservation, but failed to mention you had to climb 15 stone steps to enter the building! I find that a bit deceptive. I was also annoyed that it was slightly out of the tourist area, but was later glad, as there was so much less traffic, and it was immensely tranquil and soothing. 

Ron told the owner's daughter that the front stairs were very upsetting. He asked if someone could help with the few, but heavy, bags we were bringing into the hotel. She quickly volunteered which went a long way to soothing our distress. The owner came out and explained that the house was her mother's and had been built in 1929 and there was no place to install an elevator.

Once we finally climbed the stairs, we went out to the balcony for wine and Scotch and to enjoy our new view of beautiful Wolfgangsee.

 

View from Buchingerhof Wolfgangsee