DAY 4 - SEPTEMBER 5 - MONTREAUX AND VEVEY

Ron wasn't feeling well, to say the least, all morning. It was best that he rest.

By afternoon, he was feeling about 75% well, so we set off for Vevey and Montreaux on the Swiss side of the lake.  Just as we were arriving in Vevey, Ron found the gas gauge he had been looking for. The warning beep had been correct, the tank was almost empty. Meanwhile, I spotted a handicapped parking space, which are not clearly marked like in the US - no signs are posted, only faded wheelchair painted on the pavement. We parked and Ron went to the meter, but it only took Swiss coins. Not only didn’t we have Swiss coins, but no Swiss currency at all. He went across the street to an ATM and got 50 SwF, but no coins. He then went into a little news shop to try to buy something small and get change. There were no English-language newspapers, so he finally bought a candy bar. After all that effort, when he put the coin into the meter, it rejected it. On the second try, it kept it but did not issue a ticket (you have to place a ticket in your window). It takes awhile of aggravation before the necessary learning experiences kick in.

We set off walking anyway. No idea of the rules if handicap spots have to be paid or not. Parking tickets can be very expensive in Europe – so it was a bit of a worry in addition to the concern about no fuel in the tank!

We walked down Rue du Leman toward the waterfront where I had seen a sign pointed toward Ze Fork, a highly rated restaurant I had read about. It was not lunch time, but they were open for drinks. So, we sat for a wine and beer , and a “rest”.

We then walked a short way to “La Fourchette”, a 24-foot tall, stainless steel fork embedded in the lake in front of the Alimentarium. The Alimentarium is a museum dedicated to food and nutrition. It is located in the original headquarters of Nestlḗ, at that time Nestlḗ Condensed Milk Company. It is a beautiful, neoclassical structure, built in 1920. They moved their offices down the road several years later, but still in Vevey.

Original Nestlé HQ 

We continued walking. There are chair seats out in the rocks all along the promenade, an incredible opportunity for brave and agile people to climb out and have their picture taken, or sit and watch the scenery. The chairs in the rocks stretched on for meters.  We just wished we would be able to make our way out there! People were sunbathing all along the promenade. So sorry our US weather info indicated it was going to be cold and rainy! Feel uncomfortable and out of place with autumn clothes.

Along the way, we stopped for a photo with Charlie Chaplin, who lived in Vevey for 25 years. Interesting to read about him - he was much more than "The Little Tramp". He was a multi-faceted entertainer, musician, composer, philosopher, and some say, genius. His visa for living in the US wasn't renewed during the McCarthy era, and he settled with his family in Vevey. He and his wife, Oona, had 8 children. 

We sat along the sunny, flower bedecked promenade at a small "beach bar", Le Carre. A great spot for watching the people as well as the scenery.

We were a bit concerned about the parking situation, and returned to the car. Thankfully, no ticket. Don't know if it is because of the handicap placard we display or because no one is checking. Stopped at AGIP to fill the tank that the NAV system kept warning us about. We then headed into Montreaux. We remembered a small Thai restaurant we had visited several times when we stayed at the Hyatt, which is now the Royal Plaza. We stopped and parked in an area overlooking a lakeside park where more people were sunbathing. Ron walked up a few blocks, but didn't find the restaurant. We saw it as we were leaving, but it had a new name and wasn't open.

A bit of reminiscing, the very first time we stayed in Montreux, we were at the Hyatt and were so surprised to see Palm trees amongst the other species on the shore, and even more surprised when falling snow dusted the Palms. What a sight. Remember it so many years later. And, odd, that you don't find the Palms on the French (south side).

As we drove through Montreux we were surprised how it had grown. We wanted to walk along the floral promenade, but couldn't find any parking. I had wanted to see the Freddy Mercury statue. He lived and had the studios for his band, Queen, in Montreux for many years in the late 1970's to 1996, during which time recorded seven albums. He is quoted as saying, "If you want peace of mind, come to Montreux." That is what I am seeking, and agree that it can be found on Lake Leman.

As we passed the Grand Hotel Suisse Majestic, we recalled the night we were there and Ron was not satisfied with our room. We dragged luggage from room to room, with him dismissing each. Apparently, we were fussier then! What made it memorable was that it was June 17, 1994, and everyone in the hotel was glued to the TV watching the infamous OJ Simpson Bronco "chase".

We couldn't find anyplace that had convenient parking. Eventually we turned toward the lake on Rue du Bon-Port. It was a narrow road, which Ron said should definitely be one-way, but wasn't. Dodging big trucks, bikes, and pedestrians we finally came to a dead-end, which happened to be the Montreux Tennis Club, where a WTA tennis tournament was taking place. Ron went to investigate, and a guy associated with the tournament chastised him for leaving the motor running. 

We walked down the area where vendors had set up booths. There was a floating bar which was accessible only by a floating, bouncing rubber walkway. The "handrails" were not secure.  I said, "No way." One of the guys affiliated with the bar said "It is the place to be", and offered to help me. He then enlisted the aid of a gentleman dressed in a dark suit. I was to walk in the middle, holding their arms, but after about three steps, I saw the HUGE step down and knew my knees wouldn't do it. Ron was disappointed, as he thought the whole thing would make a great picture. Although, he admitted later, that he was even apprehensive about walking there.

We ended up back near the car where we had seen a more accessible, flat outdoor bar and restaurant belonging to Les Contretemps. We had looked at the menu when we parked, and the young man there told me we could come back at 6 PM for drinks and 7 PM for dinner. So, we made our way there and sat on a banquette, trying to shield our eyes from the sun. Across the way near the entrance to the club were these statues. So realistic!

I had read good reviews of Le Contretemps. I ordered the lake perch, one of my favorite things I always have when in the area. Ron had the daily special, sea bass with black rice. Both were brought up quickly, and were good, but not worthy of the 5-star reviews I had seen. And, being Switzerland, the prices were outrageous.

Drove back to Evian, not arriving until after 9 PM. Too late for us "old codgers". Ron had wanted to be back before dark. We were too late for the lounge so we had drinks on our balcony and elevated my very swollen ankles.  Another worry before heading off to bed after a lovely day.