DAY 14 - SEPT. 15 - TRAVEL DAY TO PASSAU

For a change, we went to the Executive Lounge on the 5th floor instead of the restaurant for breakfast. It is much more tranquil. They did have scrambled eggs, but quite undercooked (though not quite as bad as the French version which look like soup). There were meats, cheese, rolls, etc. and we managed to fill our stomachs enough to travel.

We left the hotel, driving through Haidhausen, one of our favorite areas of Munich. Many, many memories. Immediately around the corner from the hotel was L'Osteria, a restaurant where we had taken a group of agents in 1989. I came across a handwritten letter to my Mom on City Munich Hilton stationery dated 9/20/1989 saying that we were going to Oktoberfest that night, doing our favorite hike in Garmisch the next day, and it was probably 9/19 that we went to that lovely restaurant - almost 34-years ago to the day. It is impossible to think of that much time going past so quickly.

Next we came upon Wiener Platz, also in Haidhausen, where one of our favorite beer gardens is, and don't know why we didn't manage a visit this time. The Hofbraukeller am Wiener Platz has one of the largest beer gardens in Munich, and lots of history. It was the original sight of the Hofbrau Brewery, built in 1892. It is a great place with reasonable prices. In the day they even used to have a creche (day-care) for kids - I guess whose Moms wanted to drink beer.  (I think they still offer this, but have to laugh at the thought in the US any soccer Moms would be going to a beer hall). Daily lunch menus are offered at extremely reasonable prices with tasty food - a good place for friends (even Moms with kids) to gather. 

It has a bit of notoriety as the site of Hitler's first known public speech (October 1919). The later attempted putsch (November 1923) began in the nearby Burgerbraukeller, which was demolished in 1979 to make way for the Hilton City Munich (our hotel) and the Gasteig, Europe's largest cultural center which is in a state of "flux" the past few years. It has been the headquarters of the Munich Philharmonic, and has many other functions, but has faced criticism since the beginning. To our understanding, they have built a temporary, enormous concert facility elsewhere while efforts to attract investors or tenders take place. It will be interesting to see the result, as it is an ENORMOUS structure.

Wiener Platz has a small, permanent food market that has been there since 1889. There are many shops and boutiques nearby, making the square a very attractive place. As one Munich travel blogger expressed it, "It's like the Viktualienmarkt without the tourists.

Leaving Munich, we briefly drove on the Munich-Nurnberg Autobahn. In 1975, Ron used to drive that stretch once a week. He had a Fiat 1000 and on one of his "commutes", probably while driving about 160 KM/hour, the car blew a rod, a major disaster. At the time we had a friend who was an Army corpsman. Luckily, he happened to be handy with motors, and was able to repair the car for much less than a commercial garage would want.

The scenery near Landshut and continuing on wasn't very interesting. There was a small range of hills near Landau. Then acres of solar panels. At one point, I said it looked like Braselton, one warehouse after another. With all the construction zones, it took a little more than two hours for our drive to Passau.  The GPS sent us right past the Rivers Hotel/Apartment on Kapuzingerstrasse 4, but we easily returned.

In reception area of apartment/hotel Rivers Passau

Ron had booked the Rivers Hotel/Apartment, mostly based on price, but also because all of the hotels in the Altstadt peninsula  were booked. Usually I am skeptical when he does the booking, but this turned out to be very pleasant. It was by no means luxurious, but was very spacious and had everything you could want for a few day stay. The bathroom was enormous with a free-standing soaking tub, HUGE walk-in shower, and plenty of vanity space. There was a workable kitchenette, a comfy living area, and separate bedroom. AND, importantly, an elevator.

Great walk-in shower

Ron had asked the reception lady about restaurants, and she suggested a place a short walk away, the Bierria Venti Tre. After we settled into the apartment, we walked up to the restaurant. The person who greeted us said it was "full" for eating until 7 PM, but we could come back at 6 PM for drinks. So, Ron asked him to make us a reservation, and we continued walking and walking, on uneven paving stones. We stopped to catch our breath and have a quick beverage in a cute "pub", the Gallo Nero.

Gallo Nero

We finally made it back to Venti Tre which is quite a popular Passau venue, and is in the premises of a former brewery. We sat in the cute courtyard under chestnut trees, surrounded by vine-clad walls. Ron enjoyed his salad and pizza, but my pasta gorgonzola was too doughy and the sauce too thick. Service was friendly. 

We then strolled (Ron's word) back to our little apartment to spend a night in a city we had never previously visited.