SEPT. 27 - A SLOTH-LIKE DAY

 Another slow day. We took the car, and parked on Klamm Strasse. I went into the grocery store, Edeka, to see if they still had an elevator up to the Colesseo restaurant, which they did. The ground floor entrance to Colesseo was closed for some kind of construction, which we are encountering everywhere. Ron didn't want pizza or Italian food, so we walked on. 

Spotted the small, new Indian restaurant Ron had mentioned, Saffron. We ended up having a light lunch there. It advertised lunch special of main course and salad for 7.90 EU, but everything except daal was a bit more. We sat in their small, enclosed terrace. Ron had chicken curry and I had chicken in an almond sauce. It was fairly tasteless, think they made it very mild for us non-Indian folks. Anyway, I always enjoy a change from German food, which I'm not fond of.

Then we walked into the main pedestrian street to a watch shop where Ron had left his watch for repair. He was using his old Seiko which I had bought for him in the late 1970's from the company I worked for, Business Incentives. The watch shop person reported that they couldn't fix it, and referred him to another place.

We sauntered through the pedestrian zone, happy to have lovely weather. Ron used to love to saunter, but now that he is trying to wait and help me, it is more like going at a "snail's pace", which is not so enjoyable. Nevertheless, we did walk several blocks through the Mohrenplatz, the "heart of Garmisch". This restaurant has been open since 2007, but for years we have called it "that new place". We need to take time to drop by one day soon. So many people we've met with there, both business and friends, and so many meals and libations.

We then stopped in the casino, and I again played the Gators game. Ron sat with me, as he didn't want to play. I didn't fare well, and after losing 20 EU, we were out of there.

Went back to Edeka on Klamm Strasse, but they didn't have mushroom soup or some other items we needed. For years, I've been able to buy canned mushroom soup, but it is scarce here now. Didn't like the lay-out or cleanliness of this store either. What is becoming of the old, super orderly Germany?

We then drove to another grocery store, Rewe, and finally found mushroom soup. Rewe was a bit better organized. A funny thing we have noticed is that all of the grocery stores we've been into have aisle-after-aisle of wine and spirits. There are also several enormous "drink markets" in town that have nothing but beer, wine, spirits, and soft drinks. For a small community of about 27,000 residents, it seems like a surplus of alcohol. Who are all these big drinkers, especially now that there are quite a few Muslims here. (Ron says they stocked up in anticipation of our arrival.)

We then tried to drive into Partenkirchen to find the old Frauendorfer Gasthof. It has been a gasthof 101 years. They have 30 hotel rooms, but are mostly known for their Bavarian food and entertainment evenings. The entertainment program is very touristic, featuring traditional music, dancing and schuplatten. For reasons we don't recall, we stayed in the hotel once years ago. We still have the picture we took from our balcony as the screen-saver on one of our computers.

The construction taking place in Partenkirchen must be devastating to many businesses there. Almost every road is a dead-end or an Umleitung (detour). It is an unbelievable mess. Ron finally gave up and we headed back to tranquility on Kreuzstrasse.

We had a heck of a time trying to make our dinner, a family recipe we call "Kathie's Casserole". We had brought the Uncle Ben's wild rice with us, and had finally found mushroom soup, so we thought we had it made. The only baking pan in the kitchen was very small, about 5" x 5". I thought the solution was to make up the "concoction" in the sauce pan and then use half of it in the baking dish. There was no measuring cup, so we used a coffee mug as our guide. Then we had to figure out how in the world to turn on the oven. There were no printed instructions to be found, and the oven was not self-explanatory. We finally managed to get it heated, and popped the casserole in. The next issue was there were no pot-holders. I told Ron the casserole was getting too brown, and he said, "Take it out." That would have been a disaster. He managed to get it out using two flimsy dish rags. Here is the result.

Not only wasn't it visually appetizing, it didn't taste anything like what we like at home. Ron said it was "gummy". We think the can of mushroom soup was larger than our normal "Campbells", so that may have contributed. Needless to say, we had no need to keep the other half.

We haven't been able to get any English TV channels, which is odd, as we used to get CNN and other programs. So, we aren't keeping up with the news other than what we see on the internet. So, without TV, we have had some early evenings.

Ron snuggled up under a doona on the balcony for an hour or so. I tried to take a picture, but didn't know how to use the flash, so that didn't work out. Even under the doona, it became too cool, and he came in, and it was time for bed.

 

SEPT. 26 - PFLEGGERSEE

 It was a very quiet day. But, that's okay since our priority here is to relax and enjoy the aura of the Alps.

Went to the "new" Lidl across from the new Hotel Aja, which is where the old American PX and other buildings of that era had stood vacant for years. Ron was pleased they had finally used that space for something, but I think that the architecture is too modern for the area. But maybe not with a Lidl just across. The hotel is right around the corner from the Bahnhof, so it will do well. Tourism is booming in Garmisch.

The Lidl was disappointing, not well organized, and they didn't have the items we wanted.

One reason we know for certain that tourism is flourishing is that Ron visited briefly with Herr Mueller, the owner of Hotel Hirth in Grainau. Thirteen years ago, Ron and a close friend had serious negotiations with Herr Mueller about buying the hotel. They could never reach a final agreement on the price. The hotel needed major renovations even back then. Today, we passed by, and it looked closed down. We drove into the entry and parking area. It was all overgrown and hardly recognizable. A young man came out from the barn outback, and asked if he could help us. Ron explained who we were, and the fellow, who turned out to be the son, led Ron around the building to see Herr Mueller. He was working in the garden without a shirt. He excused himself, went inside, and came back with a shirt and the plans for the hotel. 

It was interesting to get some of the history since 2014. During one period, he had a contract with the German government to house immigrants in the hotel rooms. He said he did this for four years and made about six million Euros.  The hotel has been closed for four years. Herr Mueller now has architectural plans to completely raze and rebuild. It has been approved by the Gemeinde (community) of Grainau. It is the first new hospitality building plan Grainau has approved in 50 years. The cost is estimated between 35-55 million EU depending on what level of luxury. It's a beautiful piece of property with incredible views, right at the foot of the Zugspitz. We'd love to know how this project progresses. I was able to read all the details in the Merkur.de, but the article was dated several years ago, so it seems the original investors have backed out.  Herr Mueller is older than we are, and Ron says he weighs about 400 pounds.

Our main activity of the day was a trip up to the Pfleggersee. In our younger days, we took so many hikes departing from there. We would walk down for about 3 km until we came to a small stube where they serve enormous windbeutel (cream puffs). Some paths took us through the Stations of the Cross, which were very beautiful. It is sad that I can no longer do these walks! It more an issue of balance than stamina.

It's a beautiful walk up or down from there, but a bit of a harrowing drive. The already narrow one-lane road is partially closed on one side, so it is even narrower. It appears that the roadway is crumbling down the mountain.

When we arrived at the Berggasthof Pfleggersee, Ron parked right next to the building, quite illegally, I'm sure. But, he put up the handicap placard, and no one bothered us You are supposed to park way down below the restaurant. It was very busy, surprising for a late Tuesday afternoon), and we were in line to get an outdoor seat overlooking the lake (more of a pond), but a gentleman asked if we would like to share their table. This has always been the custom in Germany, although I don't think it is practiced as much today.

. 

We sat with this fellow and wife from Munster

One reason Ron likes to go here is that they've always had gulashsuppe on the menu. They still did, and that's what he had, along with a mixed salad. I had rinder-geschntzeltes (beef strips) in a mushroom sauce with spaetzle. 

The couple we sat with said they had been vacationing in Garmisch for 25-years. I said I  we have been coming here for 50 years. Yes, our first visit was in 1973! Where do the years go?

We returned to our apartment to enjoy the balcony, and sun setting over the mountains.

"The World is big, and I want to have a good look at it before it gets dark." (John Muir)

SEPT. 25 - QUIET DAY TO ORGANIZE AND ENJOY THE BEAUTY AROUND US

Monday morning, Ron walked up to Norma (grocery store) to get some morning bread and eggs. The bakery at Norma was nothing special. After breakfast, he went out to do chores, and I unpacked bags and washed my hair. 

Tried to catch up on the "blog" and do some other paperwork. 

We were so fortunate with the beautiful weather, high temps in the low 70's, no clouds or precipitation. So, we were able to enjoy the balcony and the magical views. 

Our car from balcony

The photo here shows our car, which I haven't really mentioned. It is a Citroen, and has so many features. Ron was especially happy that it is equipped with the adaptive cruise control he loves. The climate system is great - it cools and heats quickly (also heated seats), and the vents send the air stream exactly where you want. The navigation system is also terrific, speaking to us in a gentle British accent, and self-correcting typing mistakes entered into the search function. Of course, after the incident of "the keys" I shouldn't mention the keyless ignition feature. That may have its drawbacks. We have had several people stop and comment on how nice the car is, and a few days ago, a man was talking about how the French are introducing so many innovations. It is too bad Citroen isn't sold in the US.

Early evening we walked through the pedestrian zone. It was interesting to see what was new, and the refurbishments that are taking place. The town or the merchants have put out many folding chairs so visitors can sit and relax. We made it as far as the Casino - I must have been motivated to walk that far. The large, posh restaurant adjacent to the casino is closed down. Don't know if they are renovating or what. 

I wandered around the small machine area for about 15-minutes.  I was so surprised to find my favorite machine of all - Gators Gone Wild, but when I sat there and put my card in, it said my code wasn't valid. The lady next to me, tried to help, but nothing worked. So, I told her I would be back, and went off to talk to Ron about it. He kindly ended up lending me his card (I think since he had lost at the Leprechaun) and went to get another card from the front desk. Meanwhile, I hit two small progressive bonuses, and one free game. It was fun while it lasted. But, the machine finally cooled off, and I finished up losing only 2 EU. So, having fun for an hour or so for 2 EU was well worth it. But, Ron doesn't really enjoy the slots.

We walked back to the apartment, climbed the flight of stairs, and settled into a familiar spot, where we have so many special memories. Even some sad ones, such as when I was laying on the sofa for three days because I slipped on "black-ice".  It was January 2006, and I was watching on TV as rescuers tried to save the baby whale trapped in the Thames, and sadly he did not survive. But, mostly, we've had a lot of fun times here. It's a very comfy spot that feels like home. 

Ron used my walker and went across Zugspitzstrasse to the Italian restaurant, La Baita. We have eaten there many times in the past, and always enjoyed it. He saw many nice looking, crusty pizzas being served, but the one he brought home was like cardboard. 

SEPT. 24 - FROM THE TYROL TO BAVARIA

Breakfast was served only from 8-9:30 AM. We were ready in time, with all our bags brought downstairs so we wouldn't have to climb again. The breakfast room was noisy with squealing children and a large group of young men on some kind of sports team. After we finished  our rolls and speck, Ron went out on the porch for some quiet time while I worked on the blog.

The mountain air is so fresh, and the beautiful flowers and the verdant lawns and fields provide a wonderful start to the morning. Mmmm. Could sit there forever!

We set out to explore Mayrhofen and try to find any familiar sights from the past. It was fascinating how much the town had grown, and how I recognized very few things. So much of the town is now pedestrian zone, but what we saw where we were able to drive tempted us to a return trip. I'm sorry we didn't get any pictures. It is difficult with the pedestrian zones, 1-way streets, umleitungen (detours), and traffic in general.

We finally departed, and headed to our "home" for two weeks, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, about a two-hour drive - leaving Austria and going into Germany.

Cows, happy to be home

Lovely pool and pond area

We took a small back road out of Mayrhofen, and shortly before Zell am Ziller, we spotted an interesting looking hotel, Landgut Zapfenhof, in the middle of nowhere. The grounds looked so beautiful, it piqued our curiosity, and we pulled over. As usual, the parking was a chore.

We went inside to see if they would serve us a beverage, and the young woman was very friendly, offered to show us around, helped me to hold automatic doors open so I could take pictures, and invited us to sit wherever we liked. The owners, 3rd generation family, have spent years making this hotel into a showcase, and it is stunning. The outdoor pool area is like a little mountain paradise. It all started with 12 beds in 1953, and the kitchen began serving dinner in 1955. That was when the "middle house" was built, and there were then 20 beds. I believe there are now 70 rooms.  In 1956 a terrible flood damaged it, and called for much rebuilding. Another disaster in 1974, a lightning strike, burned part to the ground in minutes. The history is lengthy, and I won't go into it all. The family philosophy is "Don't get bigger, just better. Never sell, always buy." Lessons that bear thinking about. 

I was fascinated with the care they took for their table settings. Had never seen a napkin presented in quite this way.

There was so much attention to detail in every aspect of the hotel. We enjoyed looking in all the public areas, and then sat in the bar area (all alone) and had a small beer and wine. We loved the ambiance, but probably wouldn't want to stay there, as it is so isolated from any "action". But, maybe a week for rest and recuperation would be just what we need.

Pulling out of the parking space there wasn't an easy proposition. Traffic was coming from both directions, and couldn't be seen since there were curves involved, and no one was obeying the speed limit. There was finally what looked like a clearing, and Ron backed out, and received an angry fist pump (or maybe a finger) from a motorbiker.

We were trying to think of a nice place for lunch, and I kept mentioning a hotel restaurant we had enjoyed several times. I thought it was before Seefeld, and just as I was describing it for about the third time, we came upon it. Ron then knew what I meant, but said I hadn't described it accurately. Anyway, it was on the left-hand side, and traffic was such that whatever we found had to be on the RIGHT. Plus, it didn't appear that the hotel was open. (Later googled and found that the owners have moved to Seefeld and the hotel is closed.) Then, somehow, we by-passed Seefeld completely. Our next hope of lunch before "closing time" was Mittenwald.

When we arrived in Mittenwald, we saw a hotel with a restaurant, and Ron squeezed into a parking place right in front of the door. When he went in to check it out, about 1:50 PM, the guy at the desk was not willing to seat us, but the woman behind him called the dining room and asked, and they said OK, but HURRY. So, knowing we couldn't buy groceries on Sunday, and nothing else would be open, we hurried (which isn't in my vocabulary).

Since most guests had finished their meals, we were almost alone in the dining room. We quickly perused the menu, and I ordered chicken curry and Ron had schweinschnitzel (pork). It wasn't memorable.

Taken from car in front of Bahnhof

When we arrived in Garmisch the first place we stopped was the Bahnhof (train station) to see if they had the NY Times (which was formerly published in Europe as the International Herald in conjunction with the Washington Post). Ron parked in front, ran in, and they did have the Saturday-Sunday edition. It is 4.50 EU (almost US$5), so even when we can find it, we don't buy it often, but once in awhile it is great to have an actual newspaper and catch up on US news.

We drove to our apartment on Kreuzstrasse. We can't remember the first year we stayed here or how we even discovered it back in the days before internet. The owners, Michael and Martina Hausler, had told us they would be away and where we could find the key. I was sorry they weren't home so there would be someone to help Ron with the luggage. Unfortunately, I am lucky to carry my pillow up the one flight of stairs. 

There are three rental apartments in the house, a one-bedroom on the ground floor, a one-bedroom and a two-bedroom on the second. The only one available was the two-bedroom. We've had this one before, and enjoyed having the extra room for luggage, but usually we've stayed in the one-bedroom next-door, which we have many memories of. 

The Hauslers have done a major renovation of the bathrooms, which I read on their web-site, but didn't know the extent. It was a very welcome surprise. It's hard to describe, but the tall "painting" on the back wall is actually a heater, which warms the area very nicely.

Having the tub in such an unusual shape was a very clever use of space, as it allowed for a lovely shower adjacent. It is totally flat entrance with a glass door that swings over to keep water in. Hand-held shower, plus rain head. Works great! Not like the old days, climbing into a tub and using a hand-held that sprayed all over the room.

The bathroom mirrors are all lighted, and there is an extra magnifying mirror on a swing-out arm that turns on when you touch it anywhere. It is the best mirror I've ever used. Will try to find out the brand and if it is available in the US, although I'm not sure I want to see every detail of my face that clearly!

The toilet area (separate room) has also been renovated with new fixtures and a granite above-counter basin. 

The kitchen is functional with cooktop, oven, dishwasher, and micro-wave. Very compact, and careful "clean as you go cooking" is called for, especially since there is no garbage disposal, and all the rubbish has to be carefully sorted. This is still typical in Europe.

We have stayed in other apartments and hotels in Garmisch, but always feel comfortable coming back to Hausler on Kreuzstrasse. The location is great, but the the main attraction is enjoying the fabulous, soul-stirring views from the balcony. The air is often so still and crystal clear that you almost feel you can touch the mountains. 

"Mountains are nature's masterpiece. Their towering peaks inspire awe and their serene beauty captivates the heart."

 

SEPT. 23 - THE DAY THE COWS CAME HOME

 Breakfast was served in another adjoining building, which was a Pizzeria. Very nice design and ambiance.

I had carefully studied the bus schedule to ride down to Reith because Ron was concerned about parking there. I felt it would be a great inconvenience to have to come back up in the bus, which only ran every hour, and then set off in the car down the same treacherous roads to our next destination. But, Ron thought that would be best, and since I wasn't driving, I acquiesced.

Outside the hotel

The best laid plans.....

Alpbach is very pretty, but we didn't take time to explore since the bus was due soon. We set off and walked down the hill to the nearby bus stop. We could see loads of people in hiking and rain paraphernalia walking down, so I figured we were going in the right direction. We found the stop. Eventually there were about 30 of us waiting. We saw the #4074 bus going up the hill, so knew it would be coming back down shortly. When it did, it was already full, and didn't even slow down. You would think the driver would have opened the door and given some explanation. But we were all left looking around wondering what had happened. Very infuriating!  People continued waiting, thinking another bus would be along, but finally they started leaving. One group called a taxi. Ron went to get the car and picked me up.

We got down to Reith and followed the signs to the parking area. Ron showed our handicap placard, and a volunteer parking attendant had us follow him quite a distance to another lot where we were able to park. Walked slowly into town where we had to pay 7 EU per person entrance fee. The street was lined with vendor stalls selling foods, beverages, and handicrafts. 

This is one of the biggest events of the year in the Alpbachtal (Valley), and thousands of visitors turn up to enjoy. We came to an open Platz set up with long fest tables and chairs, and found a seat on the end to accommodate my walker. Got a beer and a gluhwein. The music was by a Tyrolean group, Peter Larch, more an orchestra than a band with about 40 musicians. They were very professionally outfitted in matching trachten, and the music was great. A couple songs we enjoyed include "Rosemunde" (same music as "Roll out the Barrel") and Neil Diamond's "Sweet Caroline". People sang along and it was a lot of fun.

Ron got me a kasekrainer (cheese sausage) and he had a wurst of some kind. Once we finished that, we left our table and walked a bit further. 

Suddenly, excitement built in the crowd, and everyone hurried to find a place to see. Then we heard volunteers shouting and moving everyone back off the street. Cow bells began ringing, and suddenly the lead cow appeared, complete with headdress and bell. 

When the cows are decorated it signifies that there haven't been any major pitfalls or deaths for the herd during the summer. With all the cows decorated and bells ringing, the villagers are giving thanks for a successful season.

She wasn't first, but the first I could
get a picture of

The initial procession went on for about 15-minutes with about ten farmers bringing their cows down.

We then walked down another street toward more music. Passed a smaller band on, and continued toward a bigger crowd and even more music. Unexpectedly, once again volunteers began shouting, warning people back, and more cows began coming toward us. So, we got to see another procession.

We then found a place to sit in another terrace of a lovely hotel, Der Kirchenwirt, just opposite another band. They were playing more traditional Tyrolean music, and at one point (just when Ron had gone into the hotel) they played "The Kufsteiner Lied", which has always been one of his favorites. 

Just the whole day of seeing the sights, hearing the sounds of the cowbells and the music, inhaling the crisp mountain air, and being amongst so many cheerful people having a good time and enjoying themselves was a great day for me. I was very sad to see it end, as we don't know how many days like this can lie ahead. I told Ron we need to seek out another "Fest".

We ended up going inside, and Ron had a Marillen schnapps while I had my usual Grunerveltliner, which always seems to be the "house wine" here. Shortly, he went to get the car from the handicap lot, which was still quite a walk. He drove back to the hotel, parked, and came in for another Marillen.

It was then time to head off to our next, very close, destination (about 2-hours), Mayrhofen. I had enjoyed several days in Mayrhofen when I was on one of my solo journeys in Europe in the 1980's. We also went there briefly with friends on a later visit. Our hotel this time was on the edge of town, a part of town that didn't even exist when we were last there. The Kulmbichlhof was the only place I had been able to find, and it turned out we were on the THIRD floor with no elevator. They were totally booked up, we were the last room, so no possibility to change. We had packed lightly for a one-night stay, but it was still heavy for three flights. We, especially Ron, appreciated that the lady who welcomed us carried the bags up for us. That was a nice note, but otherwise, the hotel really had no "gemutlichkeit" or charm. Just a room, and very much in the same style we remember from about 40-years ago. Anyway, I climbed the stairs and went to bed. No way I was going back down and up again! 

SEPT. 22 - SAD TO LEAVE VIENNA

I was up at 6:30 trying to get ready and finish packing. We had set a departure goal of 9 AM. Dr. Thomas came up, offering to help, but Ron had almost finished. Think Dr. Thomas mainly wanted to check the apartment for any damage.

The gates to our driveway 

We finally left about 9:15 AM. It isn't an efficient system for retrieving or returning the gate key. Once you get the gate open and the car out, you have to push the fob to close it. Then on foot, program your code into the keypad for the pedestrian door, and leave the key fob on the entrance door handle. The landlord owns the building with his architectural offices on the ground floor, three rental units on the second, and his personal apartment on top. A very nice building in a lovely neighborhood, and definitely over US$10 million.

We programmed the GPS, and it took us out of the neighbor-hood on many 1-way, and detour-blocked streets, passing gorgeous old villas, mixed with beautiful new modern homes. Due to the construction there were numerous difficult, congested spots we had to maneuver around. The streets are so narrow with cars parked everywhere - there is no place in the US we can think to compare it to.

It's actually much worse than 
it looks here!

We finally got on the autoroute, but encountered a new issue. Ron chose the left lane when he should have chosen the right. We ended up for MILES (Ron says about 16) in the most narrow of lanes. Concrete barriers on one side, and a very low barricade of sort on the other, facing oncoming traffic, with very little room on either side. Ron said this was more tense than driving up the circular parking deck at Q19. But, back in the "old days" when we lived in Germany, it was even worse, as there was no divider from the oncoming traffic, speeds were unlimited, and there were many accidents and deaths.

Once we finished with that stretch of road, Ron needed a
break to relax the tension. We stopped for gas at a station with an adjacent restaurant called Landzeit. It turned out to be a fascinating spot with an interesting history to me. (I spent an entire morning researching this topic, but you may wish to skip over it.)  There was originally a chain of motorway rest stops founded in 1972 by Heinz Rosenberg, who took over a small operation from his brother upon his death in the 1960's. The brother had been a gravel truck driver, and sold his trucks to open the first auto gas station. Heinz was a pioneer in catering to motorway travelers - something like the Howard Johnson of Austria. Upon his death at only 62, there was a family dispute over the inheritance, and the company was split up with one brother, Kris Rosenberg (a professional race car driver) and another Rosenberg female (not clear if a sister or mother or what). This original business was eventually sold to Chinese investors after nearing bankruptcy. I believe the new entity then merged with the company that operates Burger King on the roadways. What a dichotomy to the current Landzeit as described below.

Another side of the family, Wolfgang Rosenberger and his sister, Elizabeth, apparently started the new division, Landzeit. Wolfgang got his Masters at Cornell (known for hospitality studies) and worked abroad 10 years. The first Landzeit opened in 2004. It has now grown to 16 locations serving 6 million guests a year. It has 800 employees, and they have an extensive training and apprenticeship program. Several of the locations now have hotel rooms. Usually you would wrinkle your nose with distaste at the thought of stopping at an autobahn stop - maybe similar to a truck stop. But, walking into Landzeit is a lovely experience - clean, light, spacious, and a feast for the eyes. Their philosophy is everything freshly made in house every day. They make their own pastas, pastries, and even smoke their own lachs. There are stations offering all types of cuisines, including a station with glass oil & vinegar dispensers. It doesn't even resemble a cafeteria or a fast-food dining facility. There is also a shop with a lot of merchandise such as wine, preserves and other food items, crockery with beautiful designs, writing sets, stuffed animals, handbags, blankets, art work and more. 

Even the bathrooms were very special - this one was in an art nouveau mode....

We thought about having a bite there, but despite all the superlatives, decided we'd rather have a lake view (and not mass-produced food), so we continued on to Gmunden, Not having Internet or a "gourmet atlas" makes it difficult. The place I had scribbled down ended up not appealing to us at all. Ron drove around the lake and we found the Grunberg am See, in a beautiful setting. Traunsee is the deepest and largest lake entirely within Austria - gorgeous. Unfortunately, the restaurant was full, but we were told "follow him" - so we walked through long halls, kitchens, and were finally seated in the Seminar room, which definitely did not make me happy! It was a room with zero atmosphere, and we had to crane our necks for a peek at the lake,  looking over the heads of a group dinner going on at the center table. 

There was no sense driving further, especially since almost all restaurants close at 2 PM, so went ahead and ordered. As it turned out, Ron said it was his best meal of the trip to date - pork medallions in a
mushroom sauce, with broccoli and piping hot potato krokettes.  I had my standby, Austrian backhendl (fried chicken) - fairly ordinary.

After we finished we moved into a more salubrious room with direct view onto the lake and shared palatschinken with marillen (apricot). I thought we should have that traditional  Austrian dessert before leaving the country. We were introduced to it by a couple in Nurnberg in 1973. I don't think there is much difference between that and crepes. I also think it is better with ice cream filling than preserves. 

Ron in the handle of the cup

After lunch, we found the Gmundener Keramik Fabrik. I love the two or three pieces I have with the gray deer motif. But, the prices are now astronomical, and we didn't find the big "seconds" section we had seen previously. I also don't think the designs are as clear and sharp as they used to be. We were disappointed, and at over $50 for ONE coffee mug, did not buy anything.

Drove on toward that night's destination, Alpbach in the Kitzbuehl Alps. These two days were devoted to the "almbetrieb" (something recent on my very short "bucket list"), the cows coming down from their summer mountain pastures to their barns and meadows for the winter. Because it is a big day in the Alpbachtal, it had been difficult to find a room. There was nothing in Reith, so I had booked in Alpbach, which is only 7-KM, but totally UPHILL, on small, twisting roads (which we didn't realize). I said, "We are going up the mountain to meet the cows." Alpbach was voted the most beautiful village in Austria back in 1983, and we detoured to drive through there around that time, but didn't remember much about it. The village has received numerous rewards since that time

We finally found our reserved lodging for the night, the Gasthof Jakober. Once again, the parking situation was very difficult, and the rain was falling. Ron parked the car as best he could but the end of the car was blocking the sidewalk. He left me in the car while he went to check in. Our room was in a separate building, neighboring the gasthof. Ron unloaded the car, and I went into the room. He went back out to park the car, and parked it precariously on a hillside. After that ordeal in the rain we went into the Gasthof to have a drink. We were surprised at how packed it was. Ron continued to check to see if there was a better parking spot. Finally, after an hour or so, he was able to find a spot right in front of our room. The rain did not improve his mood. 

I had so many questions about the "cow parade". After all this, I sure didn't want to miss it. Ron finally spoke to some Irish guys near us, but they didn't know much about it either. One pointed out a woman, and said to ask her in the morning in the breakfast room (but we never saw her again). After our drink, we went back to the small room and had a good night's sleep, counting cows instead of sheep.

SEPT. 21 - LAST DAY IN VIENNA & YUMMY ASIAN FOOD

Spent a lot of time cleaning out fridge, repacking suitcase, etc.

Set out walking to Tram 60 stop, a block or so up. Ron had forgotten his phone and  a shopping bag, so he went back to the apartment, and I continued walking with my walker. Met him at the stop, and we took #60 to the Westbahnhof, and transferred to U3 (on the subway line). There was a couple with a white poodle in a closed-in baby stroller, and they were also looking for an elevator, and looking rather lost. Do think signage could be improved. We saw elevators across the way, but couldn't read the signs from the distance. Ron said we should walk over there, and thankfully, there was the lift to the tracks. When we were on the platform, I notice that couple with the poodle finally showed up.

It was a long U-Bahn ride to Stephansplatz. We didn't care for the Stephansplatz area when we were there 9-years ago, and still don't, as it is so touristic. But we were in search of Manner wafers Ron wanted, and I knew the shop was right there. We found the store, which seemed to be much smaller than we remembered. We walked from there, trying to get out of the most touristy part, and ended up at Ristorante Fratelli off Roten-turmstrasse. The tables on the sidewalk cafe were set with white tablecloths, and I said, "I bet there will be a gedeck". The waiter said we were past the lunch hour, but we didn't want a meal anyway. I had an Aperol spritzer and Ron a beer, and ate a package of the Manner wafers. (There was a "gedeck on the menu", but our table wasn't set and we didn't eat, so we weren't charged. It is an old-fashioned charge for table-setting, seldom seem in the modern, non-tourist establishments.)

Walked up Kramerstrasse and Rotenturmstrasse. Stopped
briefly in Hard Rock Cafe for a happy-hour price beverage. But mostly to use the restroom, which as is often the case, was in the "basement", but there was an elevator. Austria seems to be very focused on ensuring  handicap accessibility.  After that interlude, we continued walking further to Schweden Platz. The streets leading to the Platz seem to have seen quite a bit of
improvement in stores and restaurants since our month-long stay 9-years ago. At that time, Schweden Platz was the hub for our public transport. 

Had to let two #1 trams go by because they were not accessible - the old-fashioned, climb up style. Finally, the "handicap model" arrived, and we rode to Radetsky Platz, near the apartment we rented 9 years ago.

I had looked on line about Garage 01 (our hang-out when we had the apartment). It was built in an archway under the railroad tracks. From my on-line research, it seemed it was still in business under new ownership and much hoop-la. But, when we arrived, the shop sign said "Harlem", and the place looked very bleak and deserted. We sat in the sidewalk terrace area of Gasthaus Wild, which has been under the present ownership since 2002, and has earned a very good reputation. The terrace was part of the scene of the MTA story when Mary was missing for hours "neath the streets of Vienna" on the train in 2014. 

Radetsky Platz is in the 3rd District, and has apparently become quite a "stylish" area. Write-ups say it is increasingly lively and buzzy. It is known as a good place to live because it is so conveniently connected with public transport, and is actually walking distance to the City Center (1st District). It lies on the edge of the huge Prater Park. We had enjoyed our stay there very much. 

Ron walked over to Spar, still in search of a cutting board, but found nothing.

Walked up Radetskystrasse, and took Tram 1 to Schottring where we took U4 all the way to Hietzing. You certainly see all kinds of people on public transport. 

Walked a block or so from Hietzing to Jin's, Ramen & Dumplings, where we were seated on the terrace. Ordered too much food, but it was all good! Love places where you can sample several different small dishes. We had chicken BAO (delicious); Gurken Salat,  Shrimp wonton - about 8 large dumplings in garlic sauce, and a rice bowl with lots of minced pork (Ron's least favorite).

Set out to walk home and stop at Spar for Scotch, but Ron said he had to use the "facilities". It was good timing, as we were right in front of the Park Hotel, which we knew would have nice bathrooms. When he came out, I mentioned I thought I should go in as well. The joys of age! It's a huge hotel, and it was a long walk behind the conference center.  Leaving the Park, Ron was trying to maneuver my walker down the few stairs to the sidewalk. The walker fell, and everything in the compartment under the seat fell out. The day's small disaster - what a mess. But, people were very kind and offered assistance. By that point I had already said I really needed a taxi, and there happened to be one right in front. The driver didn't even seem annoyed with the short trip. Worth the 10 EU 4-block ride, and, I was sure glad to get home in one piece.

SEPT. 20 - HEURIGER

 We wanted to drive to the areas described as where expats lived in Vienna (District 18 & 19), Wahring and Dobling, on the edge of the Vienna Woods. Wahring is described as having grand, elegant homes, and the international schools are located there. 

It was piloting through a maze - stressful driving - and then along miles of train tracks with many cute shops created under the viaducts. But, it was all covered in grafitti.

We programed Doebling into the GPS, and it took us to a big, modern shopping center, Q19. So scary driving up the circular towers of the parking garage. They don't give you a centimeter to spare! This wasn't the atmosphere we were looking for, but thought they might have everything we needed. There was a huge Interspar, H&M, Douglas and other chain stores. We had high hopes for Interspar, but we didn't find much that we wanted. We needed a cutting board with handle to replace the damaged one. Contrarily, we saw every color except  plain old white. If you wanted a blue or gray or purple cutting board, you would NEVER find it. But plain old white? Just another frustration.

Returned to the car - convenient with elevator and handicap parking. So glad we had thought about bringing a handicap placard, and a neighbor had laminated it for us. 

Drove further on Grinzinger-strasse and stopped for lunch at Figl's. It is probably the most famous restaurant for schnitzl in Vienna, with the main restaurant in the city, Figlmueller. Ron dropped me off, and I slowly made my way across the cobblestones and up the stairs into the restaurant. After some diversions, we finally met up in the garden. The garden terrace is plateaued with three or four steps on each level. I noticed on their web-site that they are "barrier free", but they don't mention the steps. Very pleasant sitting in the garden, not too hot and a gentle breeze blowing.

I had their famous schnitzel, and found it so puffy with too
much breading. Unusual. Served with potato salad. Ron had the kalbsbraten.

After a nice lunch, we drove up into the hills, and coming back down, for memory's sake, we drove to Mayer Am Pfarrplatz. That was the first heuriger we ever went to. It was 1973, when we took off, on a whim, at midnight with another couple, driving all night from Nurnberg to Vienna. After the night of driving, and a full day sightseeing, we went to Grinzing. At that time I only drank beer, no wine, and the heuriger did not serve beer. So, I stayed sober and alert while the other three, who all smoked, played a game with cigarettes, burning holes into a napkin atop a glass, and the one who put the coin into the glass had to buy the next round. By the time we left there, many rounds of wine had been consumed, and the hour was getting late. We were walking, and Ron and Bob were trailing their umbrellas along the vertical bars of the windows, and "dueling" geraniums in the gardens. Lights began coming on, and we had to make a hasty escape.

Anyway, back to today. We just wanted to reminisce, nose around, and have a heuriger wine, but it turned into an interesting hour. The man at the next table asked what we were drinking. I thought I detected an Australian accent. We got to chatting, and one coincidence after another kept coming up. It was amazing. They lived in Wahroonga, and we had briefly lived in the adjacent community, Turramurra. They were amazed that any American had ever heard of Turramurra, let alone could pronounce it properly. Somehow, Ron got talking about his career in Melbourne and Sydney, and the guy seemed interested and kept asking questions. I asked him what line of work he was in, and he said he had just made partner at E&Y, and that's why they were in Vienna - celebrating his achievement. So funny, as Ron had been an E&Y partner back in the day, so then they had even more to talk about.

The wife had studied in NY and is an architect in Sydney.

We then drove back through the woods, a much more attractive and calm route than we had taken that morning.

All-in-all, an interesting, enjoyable day.

SEPT. 19 - COOKING DISASTER

Tuesday was an ultra-slow day.  As my nephew said, the blog should be called "Traveling like a Sloth". We were both worn out, and I had super swollen ankles, unlike anything I've experienced before.  - took a pill from 2020 (from a hospital stay) that I happened to have in my huge medicine bag, and hoped for the best. 

We managed to do the bags of laundry we had been accumulating. The instructions of the apartment said we could only use the utility room from 2-8 PM, so we missed a day. And then when we tried the next day, it was being used by another tenant. Then we found out the printed instructions were incorrect. It was that it could not be used from  10 PM to 8 AM. 

If you are familiar with European washers and dryers, you know that doing the laundry isn't a quick one-and-done task. The machines are very small, and most cycles run for ages. We managed to complete two loads with only a few mishaps. 

Late afternoon we started dinner preparations. There was no measuring cup. I used my teacup to measure the rice, rinsed it seven times (the way I learned from Elizabeth Chong in her Melbourne cooking class years ago (and have been obeying ever since). Found a pan with a lid. We figured out how to start the stove. There were no instructions, and many buttons, which you had to know when to hold this button down before pressing  another, and turned on the rice to boil. I asked Ron to come and help turn it down, as I couldn't figure it out. Apparently, neither could he. I covered it and  set a timer for 15 minutes to check. When I went to check, it was boiling over. It ended up a HUGE MESS, compounded by Ron setting the hot pan on the plastic cutting board. WE SHOULD HAVE HAD A PICTURE. The only redeeming fact is that he didn't put it on the formica counter!!! The Fissler induction pan not only had plastic stuck to the bottom, it was thoroughly burned inside. In the morning, I looked up Fiissler, and found that replacing it would be about $90-100. An expensive chicken curry meal! (But steel wool comes to the rescue a few days later.)

This kitchen was not the one he should have chosen to whip up one of his culinary delights. The stove top is directly next to the sink and there is hardly any counter space.

By then we had no appetite, but the chicken curry with veggies turned out tasty over what we could salvage of the burned rice.

Folding the laundry and working on Blog

After finishing the laundry chores, we settled on the balcony and called it a night.